At Les 110 Taillevent, a Michelin-starred Paris restaurant that specialises in pairing dishes with wines at various price points, the wine list reflects a traditional European hierarchy: French labels dominate, then Italian, Spanish, plus the occasional Californian bottle. One entry stands out: a white wine from Denmark.
The Cuvée Frank, €28 for a small glass, hails from Stokkebye domaine in southern Denmark. Partially aged in oak, this fresh wine with flavours of green apple and pineapple also has “a certain nuttiness”, says Paul Robineau, executive head sommelier for the Taillevent group.
Its presence signals something else, too: a redrawing of Europe’s wine map as climate change expands viticulture into territories long considered too cold, while challenging traditional winemaking regions to adapt.