FT商学院

Why the best seat in any restaurant is out back by the bins
为什么餐厅里最好的座位在后面的垃圾桶旁?

Open kitchens don’t show the half of it. To find the true heart of any restaurant, follow the smokers
开放式厨房并不能展示其全部。要找到任何一家餐厅的真正核心,请跟随抽烟的人的脚步。

The sixth anniversary of Anthony Bourdain’s death recently caused me to take down my tattered copy of Kitchen Confidential from the shelf. The word “iconic” is over-bandied, but that cover image is as close as you are going to get to a timeless visual synecdoche of the hospitality industry. Most people, understandably, are affected by the big knives tucked into the belts, the hard-ass swagger and wiry languor of the boys in the picture. Me? I can smell the wall they’re leaning on.

最近安东尼•布尔丹(Anthony Bourdain)去世六周年之际,我从书架上取下了那本破旧的《厨房机密》(Kitchen Confidential)。虽然“标志性”一词常被滥用,但那封面图像几乎是餐饮业永恒的视觉代表。大多数人可能会注意到照片中男孩们腰间的大刀、他们的硬汉姿态和瘦削的慵懒。而我?我能闻到他们所倚靠的墙发出的气味。

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