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Madrid: the growing pains of a superstar city
马德里:一座明星城市的成长阵痛

The Spanish capital is changing before its residents’ eyes. Restaurants are even imposing a two-hour limit on diners
西班牙首都正在居民眼前发生变化,一些餐厅甚至开始把用餐时间限制在两小时。

Under the wrought iron rafters of Madrid’s San Miguel market, the feasting is accelerating. Long gone are the locals who used to do their grocery shopping at the market, buying whole fish and ruby-red slabs of meat from stallholders they had known for years. Instead, on a recent Friday night, throngs of tourists are clinking glasses of ice-cold beer and gorging on salmon tartare tacos and chorizo hot dogs.

在马德里圣米格尔市场锻铁屋架下,人们大快朵颐的景象愈发热闹。曾经在这里买菜的本地居民早已不见踪影,他们过去会从相熟多年的摊主那里整条买鱼、挑选鲜红的肉块。取而代之的是,最近一个周五的夜晚,大批游客举杯冰镇啤酒,尽情享用三文鱼塔塔玉米卷和西班牙辣味香肠热狗。

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