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Charging elephants and snoozing gorillas: Jemima Kelly’s Ugandan adventure

On a tour of little-visited conservation areas, the FT columnist gets up close — sometimes a little too close — with the wildlife

It has never occurred to me before that elephant ears — those ridiculously huge, comically floppy things — could look menacing. But it is remarkable how quickly your perspective can change when a herd of wild forest elephants is charging towards your open vehicle, their great grey earflaps getting larger and less cartoon-like by the millisecond. 

“To the right!” shouts Jonathan Wright, the owner of the safari company I am travelling with, to our driver, his voice almost completely drowned out by the deafening ensemble of trumpeting sounds coming in our direction. “Right! Right!” I grab on tightly to the safety rail as we lurch round an acacia bush.

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