At almost 88, wearing homemade clothes and woolly socks, Ileana still looks defiant. She and her husband are typical of those who live at high altitude in the walls of the Bârsa Valley. They built their own house; they grow their own food; and they keep a stock of six cows and eight sheep. The local doctor hikes by once a month, and the nearest bus stop is two hours’ walk away. Then there are the bears.
I almost choke. “Bears? Even here?”
“Da, da!” insists Ileana. The bears come for apples and ants, she says.
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