From front row or afar the business of men’s fashion looks either like a lot of fuss about cashmere and denim or a crystal sharp window on what’s happening with macroeconomics, geopolitics and the state of the world in general.
With twice-yearly frequency I do a 48- to 72-hour tour of the men’s shows in Milan (reviewed elsewhere in this issue) and avoid getting caught up too much in silhouettes, fabric finishes and new ways to tie a scarf. In case you’re wondering about the latter it’s not about a jaunty knot for autumn but bandaging your neck Tuareg-style in half a kilometre of boiled merino.
For many in the trade of knitting ties, stitching shoes, sewing suits and forming hats, the past few seasons have been less than kind. Upmarket US department stores dropped lines and decreased quantities; the Japanese male became difficult to read and, in turn cater for; and in Europe mass-market retailers became experts at hitting the trends, offering better value and creating more comfortable environments for male shoppers.